Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 17 miles;
moving speed – 2.9 mph
start – 9.15 am
finish – 6.15 pm
moving – 5h 50m

We were happy to be leaving Windermere, heading for Orrest Head. After a long climb through woods between drystone walls we emerged at the viewpoint where a printed plate of Wainwright's drawing enabled us to identify the fells we would be walking over today and next week, even though the view was hazy under a grey sky.

'Walking through woods past drystone walls to Orrest Head'

'Graham examines Wainwright's illustration on Orrest Head'

'Easy, grassy path off Orrest Head'

From Orrest Head we walked past Far Orrest farm and down to the valley of Troutbeck. In the village we waited for our onward path to clear as a group of a dozen mountain bike riders straggled down the path. We were fortunate not to have met them on the narrow path.

'Do we have to walk past the cows?'

'Robin poses for the camera'

'Crossing Troutbeck'

'Waiting for mountain bikers in Troutbeck village'

From Orrest Head we had been walking over grassy paths across fields, with a couple of sections of smooth road. From the Troutbeck valley we noticed a change to rougher stony or rocky tracks that were much harder on our feet. After a steep climb from Troutbeck we joined a fairly flat farm track where we passed another group of mountain bikers. As we approached High Skelghyll Farm we were amused by a sheep taking great delight in scratching against a rock.

'Approaching High Skelghyll Farm'

'Sheep having a good scratch'

In Skelghyll Wood there were several viewpoints over Windermere, but we pressed on to the viewpoint marked on our maps, Jenkin's Crag, to stop for morning tea. We shared the view at the crag with four other couples, a dog and accumulated rubbish from many previous picnics. We enjoyed our cups of tea and shortbread biscuits bought the previous day in Windermere.

'Rough, rocky track through Skelghyll Wood'

'Sharing the view from Jenkin's Crag'

We made our way down into Ambleside. It wasn't as bad as Bowness/Windermere, but was tending that way with endless B&Bs, tourists and traffic jams. Our major disappointment was that both bakeries we passed were closed. We passed a beautiful church with an impressive steeple and a jay fossicking among the gravestones, then crossed the beautiful Miller's Bridge to leave the town.

'Ambleside B&Bs, tourists and traffic jam'

'Beautiful Ambleside church'

'Beautiful Millers Bridge'

It was a steep climb (again) up the flank of Loughrigg Fell. Part way up the track to Lilly Tarn we detoured onto a minor track to the south that we hoped would take us to the viewpoint over Ambleside and Windermere. The views from many points along the paths were wonderful. We headed back over a ridge to Lily Tarn where a woman was throwing sticks for her border collie to retrieve from the water. She left as we approached (did we look that bad, even in freshly laundered clothes?), so we occupied the seat for our lunch and watched a large dragonfly buzzing over the water.

'View from Loughrigg Fell over Windermere lake'

'View from Loughrigg Fell over Ambleside'

'Lunch at Lily Tarn'

After lunch in this lovely, peaceful spot, we headed down to Skelwith Bridge passing several couples and family groups out walking. We then climbed gently to Colwith Force, passing through several farms along the way. As well as several couples with dogs, we encountered two groups of teenagers on Duke of Edinburgh Award expeditions. The path through the woods near the Force was pleasant. We passed an old fallen tree with thousands of coins hammered into the trunk – a wishing tree. We emerged from the woods to see High Park Farm in a magnificent setting surrounded by high peaks and overlooking Langdale.

'Descending Loughrigg Fell, Stickles ahead on horizon, the rounded top of High Raise and the little blip of Sergeant Man to their right'

'Part of the Colwith Force waterfalls'

'High Park Farm in a magnificent setting'

We were getting tired, so the remaining walk along roads to Tarn Hows then through woods, alongside Yewdale Beck and over a hill to Coniston was hard work. Near Tarn Hows there was another wishing tree. Our guidebook described Tarn Hows as a 'famous tourist attraction', so we were surprised to find the area almost deserted, but it was well after 5pm. We were happy to crest our last hill of the day for our first sight of Coniston village and Coniston Water.

'Wishing tree near Tarn Hows'

'Tarn Hows'

'Last hill of the day, our first sight of Coniston village and Water'

We were soon in our lodgings for the night, the Yewdale Hotel. The bar was buzzing when we arrived at 6.15, so we ordered drinks while waiting for a lull so one of the bar staff could check us in. When we were shown to our room it was a wonderful, large room with splendid views over the village and surrounding steep, rocky fells that seemed to end just behind the houses and shops.

'Yewdale Hotel, Coniston'

'Yewdale lounge'

Graham repeated his comparative tasting of the products of Theakston and Black Sheep Breweries. Both produce great beers that over the past decade had caused Graham to swap allegiances a couple of times. On this night, Theakston had the upper hand. We had our usual pub meals that were well done. We were in bed by 9.30.

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